Davey Griffin lecturing on beef brisket anatomy at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

The seventh Camp Brisket, a joint venture between Foodways Texas and the Meat Science Section of the Department of Animal Science at Texas A&M University, was held on January 4-5, 2019 at the Rosenthal Meat Center and the Beef Cattle Center at the O.D. Butler Animal Science Complex. About 70 participants from around the U.S., United Kingdom, and New Zealand embarked on a journey to learn more about the ultimate challenge preparing that most difficult dish of Texas Barbecue cuisine, the brisket.

Camp Brisket participants (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Kerry Bexley and Tootsie Tomanetz, Snow’s BBQ (photo by Kelly Yandell)

This year’s Camp Brisket was coordinated by Texas A&M University meat science educators, Davey Griffin, Ray Riley, and Jeff Savell, and who were assisted by graduate students, undergraduate students, and staff including Wade Baty, Hayden Blumberg, Kyle Caldwell, Morgan Foster, Clayton Garrett, Eric Hamilton, Brogan Horton, Jenna Hunt, Ty Robertson, Trent Schwartz, Chandler Steele, Holly Sanders, and Wilsey Wendler. These great folks ensured that the needs of the briskets, pitmasters, and guests were attended to through the camp.

Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas, welcomed the participants to Camp Brisket. Greetings and introductions are part of the beginning of each Camp Brisket. Getting to know each other is one way to create community that is so important when we conduct these workshops.

Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas, giving a welcome to Camp Brisket

Introductions of Texas A&M University students who help with Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Before Camp Brisket starts, work begins on procuring the briskets representing different types and grades, trimming them, and applying the salt/pepper seasoning (we used a half and half mix by volume of Kosher salt and course ground pepper with 3/4 cup applied to each brisket). Davey Griffin worked with the grad students to get the briskets ready to go for the camp.

Davey Griffin trimming a brisket

Trent Schwartz and Jenna Hunt seasoning briskets

Trent Schwartz and Ray Riley seasoning briskets

Brisket use and anatomy

The first talks were by Jess Pryles, cook, writer, and TV personality, on the difference between restaurant and competition brisket, and Davey Griffin, on the anatomy and trimming of a brisket.

Jess Pryles talking about restaurant- versus competition-style briskets

Jess Pryles talking about restaurant-style briskets

Davey Griffin lecturing on beef brisket anatomy

Davey Griffin discussing brisket anatomy (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Knife selection and cooked brisket slicing

Proper knife use and sharpening was covered by Jeff Savell before a demonstration on slicing cooked briskets was conducted.

Jeff Savell talking about different knives

Brisket slicing demonstration

Smoked beef brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Tasting different grades of brisket

The first tasting test we did was for different grades of brisket. We obtained five different grades/types of briskets for use in this demonstration: Prime, Chairman’s Reserve, Wagyu, Choice, and Select. These briskets and the remaining ones used for the camp were trimmed to have no more than about 1/4 inch of fat remaining anywhere. Each brisket was seasoned with 3/4-cup of a half and half mixture (by volume) of Kosher salt and restaurant-style coarse-ground black pepper. The briskets for the grade/type demonstration were cooked on Russell Roegels of Roegels Barbecue pit with John Brotherton of Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue and others managing the cooking cycle. B&B Charcoal provided the oak logs as the source of heat and smoke.

Speaking of B&B Charcoal, thanks to Joey Machado and the company for providing all of the wood (oak, hickory, mesquite, and pecan), chunk charcoal, briquettes, and char-logs for the use in the camp. We are so pleased that B&B Charcoal and Joey contributed these products for the pitmasters and us to use to cook briskets with.

Each grade/type of brisket was sliced so that each participant received a lean portion to rate on a ballot. When completed, the ballots were tabulated by the students to determine whether the participants could tell the difference in the grades or types of brisket. The winner? The Wagyu won, with the other grades/types being rating similarly. Last year, all of the briskets were rated the same. Each year, this taste comparison usually results in Prime and Wagyu near the top and Select being near the bottom in ratings. There are perceivable differences in eating quality among different grades and types of briskets, and those interested in producing the best cooked briskets possible need to be aware of this.

Serving the different grades of brisket

Comparisons of different grades of briskets

Sampling the different briskets at Camp Brisket

Beef grading discussion

Ray Riley gave a beef grading demonstration talking about the USDA beef grades, and Davey Griffin talked about various certification programs so that the participants would know more about the various labels and brands associated with the meat they purchase.

Ray Riley talking about USDA beef grading at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Davey Griffin, Ray Riley, and Jeff Savell discussion different types/grades of briskets (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Wood and Smoke panel

There was a Wood and Smoke panel at the end of the afternoon featuring Jeff Savell as the moderator, Bill Dumas, The Switch; Kevin Kolman, Weber Grills; Tom Perini, Perini Ranch Steakhouse; Joe Riscky, Joe Riscky’s Barbeque; and Homer Robertson, World Champion Chuck Wagon competitor and Fort Worth Fire Department leader. Post oak is the featured wood for Texas Barbecue based on its abundance and how the smoke complements beef. The panel discussed the topic of using properly seasoned wood to smoke with and how important it was to getting a clean fire that imparts the good aspects of the smoke onto the product. The positives and negatives of the other woods most commonly used in smoking — hickory, mesquite, and pecan — were discussed.

The Wood and Smoke Panel at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Tom Perini and Bill Dumas, Wood and Smoke Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Homer Robertson on the Wood and Smoke Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Wood and Smoke Panel at Camp Brisket: Tom Perini, Jeff Savell, Homer Robertson, Joe Riscky, Bill Dumas, and Kevin Kolman (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Friday night dinner

We moved to the Beef Center for the rest of the program. We were blessed to have two great people involved with dinner that night. Israel Campos from Pody’s BBQ in Pecos provided the main meal with brisket and pulled pork and wonderful sides and with Homer Robertson, world champion chuck wagon competitor, provided bread pudding and apple crisp for the crowd. We thank Robert Sierra for coming up to help out with the evening’s dinner. The food was enjoyed by all!

Israel Campos and Robert Sierra

Overnight smoking at Camp Brisket

The next brisket comparison was to smoke briskets overnight using the four primary woods — oak, hickory, mesquite, and pecan. Multiple pits were used for the overnight cooking. We used Prime briskets, trimmed and seasoned as mentioned before, for the comparison, and briskets were put on the smokers around 8 pm on Friday evening so that they would be ready to serve around lunch time on Saturday. Kevin Kolman from Weber Grills started four Weber Smokey Mountain cookers with chunks from the four woods as part of the demonstration.

Observing the pits during the overnight cook

Chuck wagon breakfast, starting fires, and pit discussion

Saturday morning became a time for a great chuck wagon breakfast of biscuits and gravy and breakfast tacos made with sausage and brisket from Homer Robertson, Ty Robertson, JArthur Garcia, Joel Phillips, and Joe Riscky, a primer on starting fires in off-set pits and Weber Smokey Mountain cookers, a review of the different types of pits we used to cook with, and a discussion by Homer Robertson and Tootsie Tomenetz, Snow’s BBQ about cooking over direct coals.

Joe Riscky, JArthur Garcia, Homer Robertson, and Ty Robertson (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Davey Griffin talking about his reverse flow smoker

Pat Reardon discussing his Jambo smoker at Camp Brisket

Russell Roegels, Roegels Barbecue, talking about cooking with the Bewley pit

Russell Roegels, Roegels Barbecue (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Kevin Kolman, Weber Grills, talking about the Weber Smokey Mountain Cookers

Kevin Kolman, Weber Grills, talking about the Weber Smokey Mountain Cookers

Homer Robertson talking about chuck wagon cooking

Tootsie Tomanetz, Snow’s BBQ, talking about using live coals to cook with

Tootsie Tomanetz, Snow’s BBQ

Pit design and maintenance panel

A pit design and maintenance panel was composed of Arnis Robbins, Evie Mae’s BBQ; Kerry Bexley, Snow’s BBQ; Wayne Mueller, Louie Mueller Barbecue; Bryan Bracewell, Southside Market and Barbeque; Sunny Moberg, Moberg Smokers; Ryan Zboril, Pitts and Spitts; Kevin Kolman, with Davey Griffin as the moderator. Each panelist added his own take on what types of pits/cookers they preferred and what they did to make sure they were used to their best ability.

Pit Design and Maintenance Panel at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Ryan Zboril, Pitts and Spitts, on the Pit Design and Maintenance Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Sunny Moburg (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Davey Griffin talking to the Pit Design and Maintenance Panel

Seasonings and barbecue science

Brandon Burrows spent some time going over different seasonings outside of the normal use of salt and pepper. Jeff Savell discussed some of the science behind meat and barbecue and fielded questions from the crowd regarding a wide array of topics.

Brandon Burrows talking about seasonings (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Smoke tasting panel

Lunch that day was the tasting of the briskets prepared using the four different smokes — oak, hickory, mesquite, and pecan. Each participant received a small slice of brisket from each smoke and were asked to rate it on 9-point scales. Students tabulated the results, and there was a four-way tie among oak, hickory, mesquite, and pecan. Most years, either oak or hickory wins this competition, but we are amazed that there are really few differences in how the participants rate these briskets cooked with different woods/smokes.

Life as a pitmaster panel

One of the most highly regarded parts of Camp Brisket is the final panel, moderated by Jeff Savell, which featured Brandon Allen, Tejas Chocolate Craftory; Bryan Bracewell; Russell Roegels; Wayne Mueller; John Brotherton; Domenic Colbert, Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue; and Tootsie Tomanetz. The title of the panel was “Life as a Pitmaster,” and it gave each person a time to reflect on their path to where they are now, the challenges and opportunities they each face, and why in this crazy world of barbecue, they love this business so much.

Tootsie Tomanetz, Snow’s BBQ, on the Life as a Pitmaster Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Dominec Colbert, Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue, on the Life as a Pitmaster Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Wayne Mueller, Louie Mueller Barbecue, on the Life as a Pitmaster Panel (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Life as a Pitmaster Panel at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Bryan Bracewell, Southside Market and Barbeque (photo by Kelly Yandell)

John Brotherton, Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Russell Roegels, Roegels Barbecue (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Life as a Pitmaster Panel at Camp Brisket (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Send off meal

The final meal was a comparison of wrapped versus unwrapped briskets. There was no difference between wrapped and unwrapped briskets. Most participants are facing “brisket fatigue” at this point, and are ready for something fairly light as they depart.

We end Camp Brisket for this year and know that many people from all walks of life have come together to bond over barbecue in general, but with the common goal of how to tackle the challenge that is the brisket! Thanks to Kelly Yandell, Foodways Texas board member, for coming and taking such great photos and being at the camp to support everyone.

Davey Griffin, Ray Riley, and Jeff Savell (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Debra and Pat Reardon (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Misty Roegels and Mallory Robbins (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Sunny Moburg and Davey Griffin (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Russell Roegels, John Brotherton, and Brandon Allen (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Jeff Savell and Homer Robertson (photo by Kelly Yandell)

Looking at the different grades of beef briskets